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Introduction To The ASTM D3107 Standard And Operating Procedures For Testing The Stretch Properties Of Woven Fabrics Containing Stretch Yarns

Introduction to the ASTM D3107 Standard and Operating Procedures for Testing the Stretch Properties of Woven Fabrics Containing Stretch Yarns

The ASTM D3107 test method measures the elongation and recovery properties of woven fabrics containing elastic yarns (wholly or in part) after subjecting them to specific tension and elongation.

  • This standard is primarily applicable to woven fabrics that exhibit high elasticity (greater than 12%) and excellent recovery under low tension.
  • Two tension levels are commonly used in this standard: 1.35 kg (3 lb) and 1.8 kg (4 lb).
  • This standard differs from the breaking elongation test for woven fabrics described in ASTM D5035; ASTM D5035 utilizes a fabric strength testing machine equipped with clamps for the strip-test method, whereas ASTM D3107 employs a tensile elastic recovery tester.

Test Principle

Weights are used to apply a specific tension to an elastic fabric, causing it to stretch to a predetermined amount; the fabric’s recovery is then measured after the tension is removed. There are four test methods:

1.     Fabric elongation under fixed tension

Mark the fabric specimen with reference dimensions. Apply a specific force to the specimen under prescribed technical conditions and measure the distance between the marks while under tension. Fabric elongation is calculated based on the distance between the marks before and after the application of force.

2.     Fabric growth after loading

Mark the fabric specimen with reference dimensions. Apply a specific force to the specimen under prescribed technical conditions. Remove the tension and, after a set period, measure the distance between the marks on the relaxed specimen. Fabric growth is calculated based on the distance between the marks before loading and after relaxation.

3.     Fabric growth at fixed elongation

Mark the fabric specimen with reference dimensions. Subject a specimen—paired with the one used in the aforementioned tensile test—to a specific tension for a set period. Then, remove the tension and measure the distance between the marks at various intervals while the fabric is in a relaxed state. Fabric growth for each interval is calculated based on the initial distance between the marks and the distance measured at that specific interval.

4.     Elastic recovery

Elastic recovery is expressed as the percentage of the initial mark length represented by the fabric elongation under fixed tension and/or the fabric growth at specific time intervals.

Significance of Elastic Property Testing

  • The test method specified in this standard allows for the evaluation of the stretch, growth, and recovery properties of garments made from the tested fabrics during wear.
  • This test method is not recommended for acceptance testing in commercial transactions due to poor inter-laboratory precision.
  • Some fabrics contain elastic yarns only in the weft direction; such fabrics require testing only in the weft direction.

Sampling

1. Prepare three sets of specimens each for the warp and weft directions, measuring 65 x 560 mm (2.5 x 22 in.), with the length aligned parallel to the testing direction. Take samples diagonally across the width of the fabric to ensure representativeness.

2. If the fabric width is 125 mm or greater, take samples at least 25 mm away from the selvage.

3. If the fabric width is less than 125 mm, use the full width of the fabric as the specimen.

4. Ensure the specimens are free from creases, wrinkles, etc. Avoid contamination with oil, water, or grease during handling.

5. Unravel yarns from the edges of the specimen until the width is 50 ± 1 mm (2.00 ± 0.05 in.), removing approximately the same number of yarns from each side.

6. Fold the specimen at a point 32 mm from one end and sew a seam approximately 25 mm away from the fold.

7. Place the specimen on a smooth, flat surface and allow it to relax for 30 minutes.

Fabric Stretch and Recovery Tester

Stretch and Recovery Fabric Test
Stretch and Recovery Fabric Test

Includes the following components:

1.     A board or frame with a fixed upper clamp.

2.     A detachable clamp or similar device of known weight capable of gripping the bottom of the fabric.

3.     A pin or similar tool, 6 mm (1/4 in.) in diameter.

4.     A graduated ruler for measuring reference marks, with an accuracy of ±1% at 1 mm (0.5 in.).

5.     A locking device to maintain specimen elongation.

6.     Tension weights capable of being suspended; the combined weight (including items 3.1.2 and 3.1.3) must reach 1.8 kg (Option 1) and 1.35 kg (Option 2) ±1%.

7.     A shrinkage scale or equivalent for marking.

8.     A timer with an accuracy of at least 10 s.

Test Procedure

Sample Handling

Handle the sample carefully to maintain its natural state. Mark a gauge length of at least 250 ± 1 mm (10 ± 0.05 in) in the center of the specimen.

Elongation Test Under Fixed Tension

1.     Select Load: Choose the tension force based on product specifications or agreement (1.8 kg or 1.35 kg; default to 1.8 kg if unspecified).

2.     Clamping: Secure the upper end of the specimen with a clamp; suspend the weight from the lower end (using the provided slit) to apply tension.

3.     Pre-stretching: Cycle the specimen three times (from zero to the specified load; cycle duration approx. 5 s, hold for 3 s) to pre-stretch it.

4.     Measurement: Upon the fourth loading to the target force, measure the distance between marks (A) within 10 seconds; after maintaining the load for 30 ± 1 min, measure the distance between marks (B) again.

Post-Tension Elongation (Growth) Test

1.     Unloading: Remove the tension weight and allow the specimen to recover naturally without tension.

2.     Measurement: Immediately (within 10 seconds) after removing the tension, measure the distance between marks (C); subsequently, measure and record the distance at 30 ± 1 s, 30 ± 1 min, 1 h ± 1 min, and 2 h ± 1 min (D, E, F, G, respectively).

Growth Test Under Fixed Elongation

1.     Clamping and Pre-stretching: Clamp another set of specimens into the tester and measure the initial distance (O2). Stretch the specimen to 85% of the “average elongation,” hold for 30 ± 1 min, and measure the distance between marks (H).

2.     Unloading and Measurement: Release the lower clamp, allow the specimen to hang freely, and measure and record the distance at 30 ± 1 s, 30 ± 1 min, 1 h ± 1 min, and 2 h ± 1 min (I, J, K, L, respectively). Test the three specimens sequentially according to the procedure described above, record all measurement data, and calculate the results using standard formulas (e.g., for elongation, growth rate, and recovery rate).

Note: Testing must be conducted under standard atmospheric conditions, and measurements at specific time points must be strictly recorded during the test.

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